Bill was reading my site one day, and read the Story from Bob Roberts about the dangers of Super Glue and he emailed me this story. I appreciate Bill sharing this with me and allowing me to post it on my site.
I'll let Bill take over now...
Saw on your page Bob Roberts had a note about super glue. True this stuff does not get along well with heat but it can still have some good uses if you understand what you want to do and what type of glue you have. These glues come in different setting speeds to allow for placing parts and making adjustments, also the slower the set the stronger the bond.
Once the part is in place an accelerator can be sprayed on to speed curing. To much and you will get the fumes that Lain Odlin liked so much. Fumes are created by the glue no matter how it is used. Speed of cure is also affected by quantity of glue, the thinner the application the faster the set. As Iain Odlin almost demonstrated curing of the glue can be dangerous if it gets over heated or sped up to much.
Even if too much accelerate is put on it, it can self combust from the heat it generates.
If you puddle the glue it does not help the strength, more is not better. The strength of the fix is proportional to the surface area of the mating parts. More area more strength.
Some of the mixes come thick for filling gaps. Good for plastic parts that have split with age or were a small piece is missing. DO NOT use the glue on or near any clear parts or any you want to remain clear. The fumes will cloud the surface of the part and you will need to buff it out. The faster then glue speed the more likely this can happen. Best way to buff out is with toothpaste and a damp, soft cloth. Fluoride is not required. Even colored parts may get a white haze that will need to be buffed off.
This glue has a tendency to be brittle. Not good for any area that is subjected to twisting but pulling or pushing is ok. Best suggestion is if it flexes or moves don't glue it with cyanoacrylate's. These bonding agents need clean dry surfaces, and with the thin, fast drying mixes the surfaces need to be of close tolerances.
Many formed plastics use parting agents which are hard to get off, scrub with soap and water the best you can to remove it, and dry completely. Some plastics just cant be glued and solvent welding is more useful. Best thing is to try to glue a scrap first and see how well it works.
Good luck with your gluing and don't stick your fingers together.
Bill Williams