Another tip from Bob Roberts!

I see on your page that you use Rock Hard Wood Putty as I had posted a year or so ago. I thought you might like a more detailed use of it.

First , it is available at Ace Hardware stores nation wide.

Second, & perhaps you already have this up & I missed it: In using Rock Hard Putty as directed, it is sometimes raised up from the surface or has pit marks in it. I find it best to use a rough coat first, going so far as to put nail size holes in the wet first coat for the next coat to fill in & help secure, and keeping it below the flush surface point. A final coat can be mixed a little thin to fill in any pit marks.

When sanding this surface, I use a fine sandpaper & keep worn sheets for a second sanding & use the paper side of the sandpaper for the final sanding & in between coats from primer paint to finish coat paint. Keeps the fine scratches minimal while knocking down any grit that may be on the surface.

Rock Hard shines best on the Atari style cabinets that have broken out pieces on the corners or at the sides of the control panel.

You can use long drywall screws to screw into the existing remains of the cabinet, leaving them sticking out so that the heads are almost to the outer edge of the piece to fill in. Once you start filling in the voided area, the Rock Hard Putty will engulf the screw/heads making the repair as strong, or stronger, than it was in the first place.

Once the screws are in place, you can use a piece of old T-molding with the ribs burnished off & a petroleum jelly applied as a form for the front edge of the cabinet. I always saved old T-molding from like cabinets to do this, as the contours pretty much kept the same shape as original. I've seen this done using the game T-molding, but it is REAL hard to remove at a later date if new T-molding is needed.

Happy Gaming.......
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Big Bear Thanks The Real Bob Roberts
For parts http://personal.msy.bellsouth.net/~bob147